During my cost-of-living survey in Baku, what struck me most was how layered the city feels, almost as if it exists in parallel worlds. As an AIRINC researcher, much of my work involves navigating cities on foot—visiting neighborhoods, speaking directly with local housing sources, and observing how daily life unfolds beyond what can be captured in a single data point.

Field Notes from Baku, Azerbaijan: On-the-Ground Cost-of-Living Research

Prior to my trip, I was warned about road traffic and dangerous driving, so I decided to conduct my survey fully on foot. Moving through the city this way made these layers especially visible.

Where Is Baku Located?

Baku is the capital of Azerbaijan, a country located in the South Caucasus region of Western Asia, along the western coast of the Caspian Sea.

Observing Baku’s Physical Layers

Above ground, sleek modern buildings stand beside older European and Soviet-style structures, reflecting the many cultural influences that have shaped Azerbaijan over time. The city is highly walkable, and much of it is connected by an extensive underground pedestrian walkway system, unlike anything I had seen before. A second city unfolds below the streets, filled with small shops, food stalls, and steady streams of people going about their daily routines, revealing an entire layer of daily life taking place out of sight.

Insights from the Local Housing Market

Just as Baku is layered physically, it is also layered socially. As part of my research, I spoke directly with local housing sources across multiple neighborhoods to better understand how the rental market functions in practice. I learned that most expatriates work for embassies, international organizations, or oil companies and make up a relatively small portion of the rental market. Following the COVID-19 pandemic and the war in Ukraine, much of the market has become saturated by locals, students, and temporary arrivals tied to tourism or short-term work assignments.

Daily Life for Expatriates in Baku

Despite this, everyone I spoke with emphasized that Baku is a city accustomed to newcomers, something I consistently felt during my time there. For expatriates, daily life fits easily into this environment. Essentials are readily available at supermarkets such as Bravo and Bazarstore, and neighborhoods like White City and Port Baku offer convenient living options for both singles and families.

Why On-the-Ground Research Matters

Experiences like this highlight why on-the-ground research matters. Observing how a city is structured, how people move through it, and how different populations interact provides essential context for the cost-of-living and housing data we collect. Moving between modern districts, underground passages, and the historic old city, it becomes clear that each part of Baku represents a different moment in its history. Experiencing the city on foot, above ground, below ground, and through its historic core, made these parallel worlds feel not separate, but constantly intersecting, each shaping how the city is lived and understood.